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Paris Fashion Week is one of the most influential events in menswear. If you want to know what trends are about to dominate streetwear, look no further than the Spring/Summer 2024 menswear shows.
This Paris Fashion Week delivered everything from Pharrell’s first footwear collection with Louis Vuitton to Rhuigi Villsenor’s first collection at Rhude since his departure from Bally. The growth of menswear in recent years has finally put Men’s Fashion Week on a par with the “main” PFW shows. We’re recapping what the top brands presented for Spring/Summer 2024 to get ahead of the latest trends that will be over your social media feeds.
3.Paradis
3.Paradis took to Paris Fashion Week to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary, structuring the collection into four distinctive parts, telling a story of self-belief, freedom, and infinite possibility. The collection included a collaboration between Paris Saint-Germain Football Club, putting the team’s jersey centre stage. Quirky illustrations appeared on jersey items, varsity jackets, and button-up shirts – giving classic streetwear silhouettes a whimsical twist.
AMI
AMI showed that it’s possible to be everything all at once with its S/S24 menswear collection. Alexandre Mattiussi’s fashion show opened with Vincent Cassel, acclaimed French actor, appearing in a black double-breasted coat with slouchy trousers and a semi-sheer fitted top.The brand juxtaposed old and new – with oversized blazers worn over low-cut tees and sparkles illuminating splotched denim and crop tops. Leather played a central role in head-to-toe looks, making it an everyday neutral.
Amiri
Menswear collections often take a California cool vibe or adopt a European sensibility. Amiri took a transatlantic approach, merging the two with long shorts inspired by the woven leather of Paris’ iconic bistro chairs and classic shirts. It was a call-back to the tailoring of the ‘50s and the laid-back nature of the ‘90s. This collection reflects the wider evolution of menswear as it moves from streetwear to dressed-down tailoring with comfort-driven silhouettes that encapsulate the ‘quiet luxury’ aesthetic.
Botter
Botter presented a collection it nicknamed ‘Caribbean couture’, focusing on Haitian vodou and its common misconception. Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh presented a collection that features partially sheer floral shirts, slides, waistcoats, and mixed-matched tailoring.Key pieces in this SS24 collection include a statement red top made of upcycled scoubidou with a knitted base. The accessories are inspired by Vodou talismans, reminding us that symbolism can find its way into every outfit. Other note-worthy pieces include 3D-printed slides and button-up shirts with netting sleeves.Floral prints also make an appearance in Botter’s S/S24 collection with a sheer button-up shirt with an ‘80s-inspired print, styled high-waisted olive green trousers and casual white athleisure sneakers.
Bluemarble
Bluemarble put a saturated colour palette centre stage with a collection that blended nostalgia and maturity through leopard prints and figure-hugging silhouettes with seductive cuts. The aesthetic of the collection was summed up by its deliberately long sleeves, designed to pop out from under the jacket cuffs for a playful twist. Silk and satin take centre stage, appearing in monochromatic jewel-tone suits that show that formalwear is back with oversized tailoring. The collection also featured hibiscus artwork as a graphic print across outerwear and oversized trousers, using subtle allusions as a nostalgic call-back to bohemian fashion.
Dior
Dior created an immersive experience for its Spring/Summer 2024 show, marking Kim Jones’ fifth-anniversary show. The collection – known as ‘New Look to New Wave’ – took its inspiration from the 80s clubbing scene in London and 60s Parisian couture. The pieces referenced several of Jones’ predecessors, including Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano, and Pierre Cardin. It leaned heavily on neutrals with an understated pastel hue, reimaging suits as everyday streetwear wear. Polo shirts, crew necks, and cardigans are no longer just part of the ‘old money’ aesthetic, Dior is betting on them as some of the biggest upcoming S/S24 trends for menswear. These pieces cross time and aesthetics, putting simplicity at the heart of the Parisian fashion house’s menswear.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s SS24 collection described itself as “disrupted elegance” with elongated silhouettes and defined waists. The brand departed from its usual bold prints for understated earth tones and light textiles with a seductive sheerness. It utilised technical fabrics alongside classic mousselines to present a collection that showed both elegance and strength through menswear.
Études
The creative trio of Aureline Arbet, Jose Lamali, and Jeremie Egry blended soft tailoring and skateboarding for a S/S24 collection at Etudes that puts a new twist on comfortable streetwear. Etudes’ collection offered tailored elegance with technical details that teased at sartorial styling. Classic menswear pieces like bomber jackets and trench coats are back with gathered sleeves and wide nylon trousers that marry timeless fashion with contemporary streetwear.
Feng Chen Wang
Feng Chen Wang used her Spring/Summer 2024 collection as a chance to start afresh with a collection that focused on natural references, taking inspiration from the world around us with pieces that reference falling leaves, botanical gardens, and winged creatures. These nature-inspired prints appeared on oversized t-shirts, trench coats, and denim vests. Wang’s signature dragon illustration remained an ever-present motif, popping up in denim co-ords. The iconic Air Force 1s also got the Wang treatment for the S/S24 show with tulle décor, blooming flowers, and spiralling leaves adorning the uppers. Oversized tailoring was one of Feng’s main styling choices, sticking to utilitarian silhouettes. Feng’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection is inspired by her childhood near the mountains of Fujian, China, revisiting her roots and memories of her grandmother through nature. The collection continues the brand’s tradition of working with local Chinese artisans, using botanical contact printing on the silk pieces. Feng Chen Wang continues to be one of the top brands to watch at Paris Fashion Week as the designer incorporates her Chinese and Western backgrounds into each collection.
Hermes
‘Quiet Luxury’ is one of the buzzwords in men’s streetwear – but Hermes has epitomised it in its Spring/Summer 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week. Veronique Nichanian at Hermes is making classic pieces chic again with cashmere, technical fabrics, and warm-weather-ready cotton. It’s a pivot back to Hermes’ archival DNA, shifting away from the leather-heavy collection it has for Spring/Summer 2022. Suit jackets have a relaxed fit with breathable knit cashmere and mesh zip-up outerwear that is suited for more than just a private member’s club. Hermes’ is focusing on a neutral and pale blue colour palette, offering transitional pieces that will trickle down through the fashion ranks. Channel your inner Kendall Roy or ‘nepo baby’ with this Succession-worthy menswear collection from Hermes.
Kenzo
NIGO is continuing Kenzo Takada’s legacy at Keno with the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, entitled ‘City Pop Paris’. It’s a nod to NIGO’s teenage years in Japan during the 90s – taking inspiration from pop music, funk, and preppy looks of the era. Spring/Summer ’24 is NIGO’s fourth season with Kenzo and focuses on structured silhouettes that mix soft and formal tailoring for an abstract aesthetic. Kenzo once again bridges East and West with graphics that feature NIGO’s go-to titular motifs alongside the signature KENZO flower. The S/S 24 collection is in collaboration with VERDY, a Japanese graphic designer reimagining Kenzo’s house codes by exploring archival pieces and reinterpreting the brand’s logo. Look out for the angular rose graphic print that offers a fresh look on one of Kenzo’s archival classics.
Juun.J
Juun.J’s Spring/Summer 2024 carried with it several motifs that reminded us of ‘90s Maison Margiela, blending leather with pastel hues for menswear. You’ll find deconstructed blazers and pinstriped power suits in this collection. Denim jeans are put under the microscope with intricate textures and patterns. The South Korean designer also looked to outer space and the metaverse for inspiration, creating styles that force you to look twice with clever allusions, understated colour schemes, and proportions that go outside the box. This avant-garde brand featured metallic bodysuits, black denim, and simplistic vests reinvented with clever zipper placements. Juun.J is set to be one of the biggest streetwear brands of the season, reimagining the mundane and breathing new life into simplistic textiles.
Loewe
Loewe was one of the standout brands of Paris Fashion Week with Jonathan Anderson focusing on crystal embellishments, high waistlines, and bold footwear. The Spring/Summer 2024 balanced oversized and undersized clothing together for a contemporary trend with a distinctively vintage nostalgia. The collection had a disco-era feel taking seemingly classic coats, knitwear, and blazers and transforming them with an artistic flair. Loewe’s S/S24 collection further cement pale pastels and earth tones as two of the trends to watch for menswear.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell had his debut with a bold statement as Louis Vuitton’s new creative director for menswear. It was one of the most anticipated shows at Paris Fashion Week with a celebrity audience that included Kim Kardashian, Beyonce, Jay-Z, and Rihanna. The collection gave cameo the pixel treatment, ushering in a new era of understated luxury with a focus on oversized streetwear at Louis Vuitton.
Rhude
Rhuigi Villaseñor presented his first collection at Rhude since his departure from Bally. The collection – entitled ‘A Dream Within a Dream’ – is Villaseñor’s attempt at defining his vision of the American dream. It focuses on well-proportioned tailoring and pieces that highlighted movement, including casual blazers and beach shorts in neutral navy and cream with a sprinkle of light rainbow hues. This S/S24 collection offers the next generation of luxury sportswear, building on the legacy of Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. While we’re only in the first few weeks of summer 2023, you’ll start seeing Spring/Summer 2024 pieces arriving at our online store soon. Look out for these trends from Paris Fashion Week as they start to pop up in streetwear, celebrity fashion, and from your favourite brands.
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